November 2, 2026
A Striking Design Caught in Unfortunate Timing
The Hautlence Kubera is a charming timepiece whose debut was overshadowed by poor timing. It arrived after Patek Philippe’s much-criticized Cubitus, an angular take on the Nautilus that sparked widespread imitation, so nearly every new square watch now invites comparison. The cube-evoking “Kubera” name only reinforces that assumption. Yet this new family from H. Moser & Cie’s sister brand deserves to be judged on its own merits. Hautlence calls this olive green debut the “Kubera Series 1,” which suggests that future colors, and possibly new materials, are on the way.
Mastering White Space on the Dial
What makes the Kubera clever is not simply its silhouette but its handling of empty space. Three-dimensional labyrinthine grooves run across the steel case, bracelet, and dial. This texture keeps the handless layout from feeling barren. A window at 12 o’clock shows the instantaneous jump hour, while a small circle on a rotating disc tracks the minutes without any reference markers. The dial is easy to read, although minute readings lack precision. Turquoise accents on the hour disc and minute indicator complement the olive face.
Movement and Case Details
Powering the watch is the automatic caliber B60, which Hautlence co-developed with Swiss movement specialist Aghenor. It beats at 4Hz and offers 70 hours of power reserve. The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback and carries the same grooved motif as the case, dial, and bracelet. The square crown adds to this cohesive look. The stepped steel case measures 36mm wide, 11.3mm thick, and 43.8mm lug-to-lug, with a flat sapphire crystal and 30 meters of water resistance.
Ergonomics That Rival the Movement
Unusually for such an artistic watch, Hautlence invested heavily in wearability. The watch ships on a matching bracelet, and buyers can add the optional “Kubera Hybrid Strap with Adaptive Fit System & Clasp.” This rubber and Nomex strap uses a ratcheting clasp inspired by ski boots. Both the bracelet and strap feature micro-adjustable deployants, and proprietary quick-release pushers on the caseback make swapping them easy. Arguably, the case and attachment systems are as complex as the movement, and they account for much of the watch’s value.
Pricing and Final Thoughts
On the wrist, the Kubera looks better than its promotional imagery suggests. It is comfortable, legible, and artistic rather than nerdy. It is not a limited edition, but Hautlence produces only small quantities each year, fewer than H. Moser. The Kubera Series 1 FB60-ST00 retails for CHF 32,900, and the strap system is a CHF 990 accessory.
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