Richard Mille and the Pursuit of Ultra-Thin Watches

January 24th 2025

Richard Mille has long been a pioneer in crafting thin mechanical watches, even before the recent surge in demand for ultra-thin timepieces. While the brand holds a record with the RM UP-01 Ferrari for one of the thinnest mechanical watches, its legacy in slim watchmaking dates back over a decade with the original Extraflat rectangular models. These watches have been an integral yet unconventional part of the Richard Mille portfolio. Historically, the Extraflat collection was considered an entry-level option within the brand, though the definition of “entry-level” has evolved significantly with rising price points.

A Fashion-Forward Approach

Richard Mille has now introduced two new variations of its classic thin automatic watch—the RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat—available in grade 5 titanium or terracotta-colored quartz TPT. This time, the brand is positioning these timepieces as luxury fashion statements. Unlike its typical marketing focus on technical mastery or celebrity endorsements, Richard Mille has produced an elaborate fashion photography campaign for the RM 16-02. This shift underscores a broader trend where high-end watchmakers recognize the value of aspirational lifestyle marketing.

Technical Evolution and Unique Aesthetics

While the RM 16-02 retains the overall case profile of its predecessors, Richard Mille emphasizes its architectural refinements. The new calibre CRMA9 movement, though based on existing mechanics, incorporates fresh bridge designs and angular elements, aligning with the watch’s bold aesthetic. The sapphire crystal dial, colored titanium bridges, and unconventional layout all contribute to an avant-garde design that challenges traditional horology.

Notably, the watch’s dial features an irregular, almost chaotic angularity, marked by a squiggly squared line running through partially cut-off hour markers. This unconventional composition leans more into artistic expression than traditional watchmaking, reinforcing Richard Mille’s desire to be recognized as a design icon rather than solely a technical innovator.

Case and Wearability

The RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat boasts a slightly smaller case than previous models—now measuring 36mm in width, 9.5mm in thickness, and 45.6mm in lug-to-lug length. The case is water-resistant up to 30 meters and features sapphire crystals on both the front and back. Two material options are available: a titanium case and a terracotta quartz TPT case, the latter being a distinctive, earthy hue that adds a new color to Richard Mille’s palette. Both versions are paired with matching rubber straps for comfort and wearability.

Movement and Performance

The RM 16-02 houses the CRMA9 automatic movement, distinguished by its angular platinum-weighted rotor. Operating at 4Hz, it offers a 50-hour power reserve and focuses purely on timekeeping with hour and minute functions. Richard Mille highlights the meticulous machining and hand-finishing required for the movement’s bridges, reinforcing its dedication to craftsmanship.

Pricing and Market Positioning

Pricing for the RM 16-02 varies based on material choice: the titanium model is priced at $134,000, while the terracotta quartz TPT version costs $156,000 due to the complexity of working with the composite material. Notably, the brand is presenting these watches as gender-fluid pieces, aiming to appeal to a broader audience. Whether this fashion-oriented marketing strategy will resonate with Richard Mille’s traditional clientele remains to be seen, but it certainly signals an evolving direction for the brand.

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