August 20th 2024
The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton watch, released in 2024, feels like it could belong on Robert Downey Jr.’s wrist in the 2009 film Sherlock Holmes. The watch’s steampunk aesthetic would perfectly complement Guy Ritchie’s depiction of Victorian-era London, despite the fact that wristwatches for men weren’t popular in the 1890s.
Moser’s Minimalist Approach Meets Skeleton Design
H. Moser & Cie is known for its minimalist design philosophy, often concealing superfluous elements to maintain an understated elegance. However, with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton, the brand breaks tradition by making the watch’s inner workings a focal point of its design. Although this isn’t Moser’s first skeleton watch—that honor goes to the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton from 2022—it is the first time the sleek Streamliner model has received an open-worked treatment.
Integrated Bracelet and Sleek Design
The watch features a 40mm cushion-shaped steel case, designed to sit comfortably on the wrist. The integrated bracelet, composed of singular wide links, creates a serpentine effect that hugs the wrist perfectly. The brushed and polished finishes of the case and bracelet work harmoniously, with a subtly domed sapphire crystal adding to the watch’s overall elegance. The round crystal juxtaposes nicely with the cushion-shaped case, adding visual interest.
A Naked and Minimalist Skeleton Watch
Despite the ornate nature of skeleton watches, H. Moser & Cie. maintains its minimalist approach, stripping the watch down to its bare essentials. The porous face allows a clear view of the skeletonized movement, with the wearer’s arm serving as the dial background. The watch features a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock, and Moser’s signature double hairspring technology enhances accuracy by reducing friction.
Impressive Movement and Functionality
At the heart of the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton is the automatic Caliber HMC 814, operating at 21,600 beats per hour with a 72-hour power reserve. The movement, comprising 167 components, is exquisitely finished with diamond-beveled anthracite mainplate and bridges, lighter-toned gears, and a 5N rose gold open-worked rotor. Despite its intricate design, the watch is water-resistant up to 120 meters.
Legibility and Innovation
A common issue with skeleton watches is legibility, but Moser addresses this with 5N gold-plated hour and minute hands, which provide enough contrast for easy time-telling. The hands also feature Globolight inserts, a cutting-edge ceramic material infused with Super-LumiNova for enhanced luminosity.
A Striking Masterpiece
The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton is a remarkable blend of design and innovation, offering a unique take on the integrated bracelet, tourbillon, and skeletonized watch trends. Priced at $86,900 USD, it is a striking piece that showcases Moser’s mastery in creating visually appealing and mechanically innovative timepieces.