March 19th 2025
Rethinking Traditional Watch Collecting
Watch collecting is often guided by a set of unwritten rules—building a collection that includes a dive watch, a GMT, a dress watch, and a complication, preferably spanning different brands and eras. Current trends further emphasize smaller cases, integrated bracelets, and precious metals. These conventions shape many purchasing decisions, influencing collectors to follow a predefined path.
Moving Beyond the Expected
Yet, collecting watches doesn’t have to follow a rigid formula. The 1973 Zenith El Primero reference 01.0200.415 “Big Blue” is an example of embracing personal taste over conventional wisdom. Rather than selecting a watch to fill a perceived gap in a collection, this timepiece represents a deep appreciation for vintage sports chronographs of the late ’60s and ’70s. This approach challenges the idea that a collection must be diverse to be meaningful.
The Zenith El Primero “Big Blue”: A Distinctive Choice
Among Zenith’s early automatic chronographs, the “Big Blue” stands out for its bold, futuristic design. Released in 1973, it was part of the second wave of El Primero models before Zenith ceased mechanical watch production in 1975.
With a 42mm stainless steel case, the watch exudes a robust, space-age appeal. Its rocker-style chronograph pushers reinforce its unconventional aesthetic, while the rounded-square “TV” dial layout is a departure from traditional chronograph designs. Despite its size, the watch remains wearable, thanks to a 44.2mm lug-to-lug span and a 14.3mm thickness.
A Dial That Defines 1970s Watchmaking
The dial of the “Big Blue” captures the essence of 1970s design. Its vertically brushed blue surface shifts between navy and cerulean under different lighting, creating dynamic visual appeal. Applied indices, a tachymeter ring, and silver chronograph scales add layers of depth. The 4:30 date window integrates seamlessly, featuring a trapezoidal cutout and a rare blue date wheel matching the dial.
A Legendary Movement: The El Primero 3019 PHC
At the heart of the watch is the El Primero 3019 PHC, one of the most significant automatic chronograph movements ever created. Running at 36,000 beats per hour, it offers an exceptionally smooth sweep. Beyond its role in Zenith’s own history, this movement also powered notable chronographs from Movado, Ebel, and even Rolex, further cementing its status as an industry-defining caliber.
A Polarizing Yet Iconic Bracelet
The integrated stainless steel bracelet of the “Big Blue” is a bold design statement. With sharply faceted links and a dramatic taper from 31mm at the case to 16mm at the clasp, it makes a strong visual impact. Early models featured a Châtelain bracelet, while later versions used an NSA-produced H-link design. While the bracelet remains a topic of debate among collectors, its distinctive styling sets the watch apart.
Collecting for Passion, Not for Trends
Watch collecting should be about enjoyment, not obligation. The Zenith El Primero “Big Blue” is a testament to the idea that collecting can be driven by personal appreciation rather than market trends or collector expectations. Choosing watches based on individual passion, rather than external influence, allows for a more fulfilling collecting experience.