After an unexpectedly long, four-year dormancy, the Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding 41mm watch marks the return of a collection launched in early 2020. This collection was designed to revive and remaster some of the finer, long-forgotten timepieces in Audemars Piguet’s extensive archive. It all began with the [RE]Master01, which, despite its good looks, exclusive limitation, and steep price, left collectors expecting more. So, how has Audemars Piguet stepped up its game since then?
A Blast from the Past: The Audemars Piguet 5159BA
Enter the Audemars Piguet 5159BA, an asymmetrical watch launched over half a century ago in 1960. Embracing the brutalist style of the 1950s, it features overpowered lugs, extended lines, sharp corners and edges, and a playful asymmetry. For its 2024 remaster, the [RE]Master02 takes advantage of 21st-century manufacturing technologies to enhance the original design.
Modern Manufacturing Meets Vintage Design
Where the original intended to have sharp edges, the new [RE]Master02 actually does. Modern milling technologies, multi-axis CNC machines, and precise shaping techniques have transformed the original design into something the original designer could only dream of. While the soft edges of vintage watches have their charm, the cold and calculated precision of the [RE]Master02 offers a different appeal.
Innovative Alloy and Elegant Dial
The [RE]Master02 features a new 18k sand-gold alloy that appears between white and pink gold. This stylish choice surpasses vibrant yellow gold, historically incorrect rose gold, or plain white gold. The dial, called “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50,” adds a sophisticated touch, though its name might not be dinner table friendly.
Movement and Craftsmanship
Odd-shaped watches are often coveted by collectors for their unique design and bespoke movements. The [RE]Master02, however, falls short of expectations in this regard. Despite its $47,200 USD price tag and production limited to 250 pieces, some collectors expected more refinement in its movement integration.
On a positive note, the [RE]Master02 is powered by the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7129, a self-winding movement that is just 2.8mm thick. With an enlarged barrel and a ball bearing-mounted and double reverser-equipped rotor, the 7129 offers a 52-hour power reserve, impressive for such a thin caliber. The watch itself is just 9.7mm thick, maintaining dress-watch dimensions with a unique aesthetic.
Conclusion: A New Lease on Life
Audemars Piguet has a wealth of fantastic vintage watch designs, and it’s exciting to see the brand reviving them. The [RE]Master02’s case, alloy, and dial have all received significant attention to ensure superb proportions and quality execution. However, the movement and its integration may be a dealbreaker for some. It would be nice to see Audemars Piguet put a bit more effort into this element before calling the project a true remaster.