Rolex has once again captured the horological world’s attention with the debut of the platinum-cased Rolex Perpetual 1908 at Watches & Wonders 2024. This exquisite timepiece has already earned a special place in the hearts of many enthusiasts, prompting blogs to feature it multiple times. Most recently, Mike Razak shared his glowing review of the “Ice Blue” guilloché-dial Rolex Perpetual 1908 52506, highlighting its beauty and craftsmanship. Additionally, this model made it to our list of the top 10 watches at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024. Now, let’s delve into my personal experience with this standout dress watch.
A Fresh Addition to the Rolex 1908 Family
Introduced in 2023 as a successor to the Rolex Cellini, the 1908 collection began with 18k gold models. The new platinum variant, reference 52506, further enriches this elegant series. Rolex is known for its “ice blue” dials on platinum watches, and the 1908 continues this tradition with a stunning guilloché-engraved dial, a rare feature in Rolex’s portfolio.
The Allure of Guilloché and Platinum
The guilloché technique, while not new to Rolex, adds a unique charm to the 1908 platinum watch. This intricate engraving, combined with the iconic ice blue color, sets the 1908 apart from other Rolex models. The result is a timepiece that feels exceptionally special within Rolex’s current lineup, addressing critiques of the brand’s often repetitive designs.
Value and Luxury in Platinum
Platinum is a premium material, and Rolex excels in offering exceptional value in its platinum watches. Priced at just over $30,000 USD, the 52506 model represents a solid investment. While there are less expensive platinum watches available, Rolex’s quality and craftsmanship justify the cost. The brown alligator strap and matching platinum deployant clasp enhance its luxury appeal.
A Dress Watch with Modern Versatility
Historically, Rolex’s dress watches have been niche products, overshadowed by their popular sports models. However, the 1908 platinum watch brings a modern twist to the classic dress watch, making it suitable for both formal and casual settings. The slim 39mm case, with a thickness of just 9.5mm, ensures a comfortable fit, while the 50 meters of water resistance adds practical functionality.
Impressive Movement and Craftsmanship
The Rolex 1908 houses the high-performance caliber 7140 automatic movement, featuring the Syloxi silicon hairspring. This movement offers outstanding accuracy and a 66-hour power reserve. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the beautifully finished 7140, showcasing some of the finest industrially applied finishing techniques.
A Minor Critique: The Superlative Chronometer Text
Some enthusiasts have noted the “SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER” text on the dial as a minor distraction. However, this branding is part of Rolex’s heritage, signifying the watch’s exceptional performance. The text does little to detract from the overall beauty of the dial.
Final Thoughts
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 platinum watch is a remarkable addition to the brand’s collection. Its understated elegance and timeless design make it a versatile choice for everyday wear. While it comes with a substantial price tag, it offers excellent value for a platinum timepiece. Personally, although I am not in the market for a $30,000 watch, the 1908 platinum would be high on my list of sensible luxury watches. What are your thoughts on this new Rolex release? The reference 52506 Rolex Perpetual 1908 “Ice Blue” platinum watch is priced at $30,900 USD.