The Rise of Purple in Watchmaking

January 22nd 2025

While not traditionally a dominant color in watchmaking, purple is emerging as an unexpected trend in 2025. TAG Heuer, a brand familiar with this regal hue, introduced a striking purple-dial Monaco in 2022. Now, as part of LVMH Watch Week 2025, the brand brings this mysterious color to the Carrera line for the first time. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph and the limited edition Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in purple offer a rich and enchanting twist to this iconic collection while maintaining the distinctive characteristics that have made the “Glassbox” series a fan favorite.

Case Design and Construction

Both models share TAG Heuer’s signature “Glassbox” stainless steel case but differ in size and presence. The Carrera Chronograph adopts a balanced 39mm case, while the more striking Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon features a larger 42mm diameter. Despite the tourbillon addition, the thickness variation between the models is minimal, with the Chronograph at 13.86mm and the Tourbillon at 14.33mm. Both watches showcase a bezel-less sapphire crystal, faceted lugs, and a mix of polished and brushed finishes. Additionally, they feature sapphire display casebacks and offer a solid 100-meter water resistance rating.

The Captivating Purple Dial

The dials serve as the centerpiece of these timepieces, boasting a deep violet shade that darkens towards the edges. A fine sunburst texture enhances the visual depth, creating a luxurious and almost mystical appearance. Both models retain the Carrera’s hallmark design elements, including sloping indices and contrasting black subdials. However, the Tourbillon’s open dial and three-arm tourbillon cage provide a more striking showcase of this unique color treatment.

In-House Movements and Performance

TAG Heuer equips these models with in-house movements. The Carrera Chronograph houses the TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement, featuring an 80-hour power reserve and a column wheel with a vertical clutch system. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is powered by the TH20-09, which maintains similar specifications but incorporates an intricate tourbillon escapement. The TH20-09 offers a slightly lower 65-hour power reserve due to the energy-intensive tourbillon. Both movements feature refined finishing, including Côtes de Genève on the bridges and a skeletonized rotor with the TAG Heuer shield motif. Unlike previous models, these movements forego colored column wheels in favor of polished components, a likely intentional design choice.

Final Thoughts and Availability

The popularity of purple watches continues to grow, and TAG Heuer’s latest releases reinforce this emerging trend. While not the most revolutionary unveilings of LVMH Watch Week 2025, the Carrera Chronograph and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in purple add compelling options to the collection. Available now through authorized dealers, the Carrera Chronograph is priced at 6,500 CHF, while the limited edition Tourbillon model—restricted to just 200 units—retails for 34,000 CHF, marking a notable price increase over previous tourbillon-equipped Carreras despite similar mechanics. As purple gains traction in the watch world, these striking timepieces may soon become coveted collector’s items.

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