The anticipation has been palpable for nearly a decade. Many watch enthusiasts have been eagerly waiting for TAG Heuer to present its affordable, tourbillon chronograph movement in a more refined and elegant design. Originally launched in 2016, the Heuer-02T was a futuristic, robust, and sporty chronograph featuring one of the most competitively priced tourbillon movements from any major Swiss watchmaker. Fast forward to 2023, and TAG Heuer has reimagined this concept as part of the 60th-anniversary celebrations of the Carrera collection, introducing the TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph with a striking new teal-dial version.
Key Updates Over Eight Years
Several important changes have occurred since the debut of the Heuer-02T. The movement, now referred to as the TH20-09, remains a development of the original Heuer-02T. Produced in TAG Heuer’s Chevenez facility, the TH20-09 now boasts an extended warranty of up to five years, compared to the previous two. It features a redesigned rotor that winds bidirectionally through a noise-dampened bearing and gear train, providing one of the fastest winding speeds on the market.
Aesthetic and Functional Enhancements
The new oscillating weight design is among the notable aesthetic changes, with the TH20-09 movement receiving more classic decorations such as brushed and striped surface treatments. This replaces the dark, modern-looking black-plated finish of the Heuer-02 and Heuer-02T calibers with a traditional rhodium-plated look. Despite these updates, the power reserve and operating frequency remain unchanged at 65 hours and 4Hz, respectively.
A Step Back in Certification
Interestingly, TAG Heuer has quietly dropped the COSC chronometer certification with this update. The original Heuer-02T was celebrated not only for its aggressive pricing but also for its proven chronometric performance. The decision to omit the COSC certification is puzzling, especially considering the significant price increase from $15,950 to $24,050 USD for the new model.
Design and Pricing
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph with a teal dial might be relying heavily on its attractive design to justify its elevated price. The “glassbox” execution, featuring a minimal bezel, color-shifting teal dial, long Carrera lugs, applied hour markers, and a prominent tourbillon cut-out at 6 o’clock, creates a visually striking piece. Despite its 42mm width and 14.33mm thickness, the domed crystal and the dial’s depth add to its elegant appearance.
Conclusion
Priced at $24,050 USD, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph (reference CBS5011.FC6566) is undoubtedly a costly proposition. Yet, it remains one of the more competitive tourbillon-equipped luxury watches from a major Swiss watchmaker. Even after what feels like a decade, TAG Heuer continues to set the pace, leaving the competition struggling to keep up.