In the world of luxury watches, Angelus has long been synonymous with groundbreaking skeletonized designs that showcase the inner workings of timepieces in a visually stunning way. However, recent developments have seen the brand shifting towards a more vintage-inspired aesthetic while still maintaining its reputation for exceptional craftsmanship. Let’s delve into the journey of Angelus from its skeletonized marvels to its latest offering, the Angelus Instrument de Vitesse.
A Shift in Design Philosophy
Angelus’ history is steeped in innovative skeletonization, where the movement architecture took center stage, leaving nothing to hide. This approach reached its pinnacle with watches that featured colorful bridges and a mesmerizing view of the mechanics. However, in 2022, Angelus surprised enthusiasts with the release of the solid-dial Chronodate, signaling a departure from its signature style. This shift continued with collaborations like the one with Massena Lab for a doctor’s watch, hinting at a new direction for the brand.
Introducing the Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, Angelus unveiled the Instrument de Vitesse, a central-second monopusher chronograph that marks a full embrace of concealing the movement. The watch’s design is elegantly simple, featuring a 39mm case with a slim profile of 9.27mm, making it versatile for various wrist sizes. The polished case is complemented by brushed sides, adding a touch of sophistication.
Details That Impress
One of the standout features of the Instrument de Vitesse is the crown-integrated monopusher, positioned at 3 o’clock for a cleaner look compared to previous designs. The watch comes with two dial options: ivory white and ebony black, both adorned with Super-LumiNova-filled Arabic numerals and syringe hands. The dials also feature a Base 1000 tachymeter scale, adding functionality to the vintage charm.
The Heart of the Watch
Powering the Instrument de Vitesse is the Angelus A5000 manual winding monopusher chronograph movement, offering 42 hours of power reserve. What makes this movement remarkable is its heritage, evolving from the prestigious THA 045MC caliber designed by watchmaking legends Francois-Paul Journe and Denis Flageollet.
The Verdict
While the Instrument de Vitesse exudes vintage appeal and boasts a rich horological history, some enthusiasts may miss Angelus’ iconic skeletonized designs. Priced at CHF 17,100 and limited to 25 pieces per colorway, this watch appeals to collectors who appreciate heritage and craftsmanship. However, for those longing for Angelus’ daring skeletonized creations, the brand’s current direction may leave them yearning for more.
In conclusion, Angelus’ journey reflects the ever-evolving landscape of luxury watchmaking, blending tradition with innovation to captivate enthusiasts old and new.