September 10th 2024
A Supervillain Among Watches?
When I first looked at the dial of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, I couldn’t help but think of Bane from Batman. Does anyone else see the resemblance, or is it just me? Between Audemars Piguet’s previous Spider-Man and Black Panther editions and the fact that the Code 11.59 was initially viewed as the “supervillain” of watch enthusiasts when it debuted in 2019 (perhaps unfairly), it’s hard to shake off the comic book vibes.
A Striking Dial Design
The dial’s aesthetic owes much to the architecture of its Caliber 2952. This movement operates at 3 Hz and has a 65-hour power reserve. It features a captivating blend of strong lines, geometric patterns, and a color palette that transitions from light gray to black, with touches of pink gold and magenta. The pink gold balance wheel of the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock is echoed in the pink gold hands and the transparent chronograph counters. At 12 o’clock, the black barrel bridge merges seamlessly with the blackened mainplate, creating a dark, cohesive look. In contrast, the rhodium-toned bridges, silver gears, and screws stand out against this dark background, adding visual interest to the design. Completing the dial is a slate gray, semi-matte, circular-snailed inner bezel with a white printed seconds scale.
Impeccable Finishing and Craftsmanship
As expected from Audemars Piguet, the finishing of the movement is exceptional. According to the brand, there are 111 inner angles on the bridges and decorative elements, all finished by hand. While I haven’t personally counted them, I have no reason to doubt their claim.
A Bold Case Design
The movement and dial are housed in a 41mm case that blends white gold and black ceramic. The ultra-thin bezel, caseback ring, and skeletonized lugs are crafted from 18k white gold, while the octagonal middle case and winding crown are made of black ceramic. True to AP’s form, the case features a mix of brushed and polished finishes, adding layers of design interest to this already striking timepiece. The case is 13.8mm thick, water-resistant to 30 meters, and fitted with the Code 11.59’s signature double-curved sapphire crystal. It is paired with a dark gray rubber-coated strap with an 18k white gold folding clasp.
Acceptance in the Watch Community
Despite its impressive design and craftsmanship, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph (ref. 26399NB.OO.D009KB.01) faces challenges in winning over watch enthusiasts. It checks many boxes that often draw criticism—tourbillon fatigue, busy skeletonization, a steep price tag (CHF 272,500), and the polarizing Code 11.59 design. Yet, I find this watch quite photogenic. Its dark, supervillain-like aesthetic suits it well, and like any good antagonist, it has undeniable charisma.