For 2024, Swiss watchmaker H. Moser & Cie. introduces a new addition to its sporty Pioneer collection—the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds watch. This is the first model in the Pioneer line to feature a retrograde complication, offering an interesting mechanical element without significantly raising the price point. The Pioneer collection now includes simple time-only watches, pieces with small complications like the Retrograde Seconds, and models with more advanced complications like chronographs, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons.
What Is a Retrograde Complication?
A retrograde complication involves an indicator or hand that moves along a path and then snaps back to its starting point. In the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds, the second hand travels across the scale in 30 seconds before jumping back to its original position. While the complication doesn’t add complexity to the movement itself, it creates a dynamic visual effect on the dial, enhancing the watch’s aesthetic appeal.
Design and Aesthetics
The debut model (Reference 3250-1200) features a stunning blue “fumé” dial, transitioning from black at the edges to blue at the center. Luminous hour markers and hands painted with Super-LumiNova ensure readability, though this timepiece is more about style than precision. The dial is minimalist, with Moser’s logo subtly placed below 12 o’clock for a clean, modern look.
Improved Glare Reduction
One notable improvement is the enhanced anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal, a previous weak point for Moser watches. The 42.8mm steel case, paired with a blue rubber strap, is water-resistant to 120 meters, with other strap options including alligator leather or steel.
Movement and Mechanism
The retrograde module was developed by Aghenor and integrated into Moser’s in-house automatic caliber HMC 250, which operates at 3Hz with a 72-hour power reserve. While a 4Hz movement might suit the sporty Pioneer series better, the HMC 250’s craftsmanship and visible anthracite bridges make it visually impressive through the sapphire caseback.
Pricing and Final Thoughts
Melding sportiness with sophistication, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is a standout addition to Moser’s lineup. Priced at $21,900 USD, it offers a blend of modern styling and mechanical intrigue at a relatively accessible price point for the brand.